I point out they need a light rail, and this shows some wood and the quality of a real cabinet that's built to last. Then I use a 2 1/4" bottom rail with 2" showing. So far my customers do not want to see a reveal above the top of the doors on uppers, so I do a full overlay as much as 1 3/4" on a 2" top rail (no moulding at all, usually has a foot of space to the ceiling). This allows for 1/4" gaps between rails, for the Euro look. I use Blum hinges with a 1/2" overlay ff plate. They see frameless cabinets featured in these publications and that's what they want. I believe that the customer who wants full overlay wants what they see in kitchen and design magazines that they get from the supermarket or bookstore. For example, if I have 1 3/4 between doors, 1 3/4 from top of door to top rail, then I will have 1 3/4 reveal below the crown. On top rail I will make it as large as I need to compensate for the crown and leave the same reveal below it as the rest of the cabinet. This allows the same reveal between doors as shown on the rails. We have a separate construction method for this we call it "full access." Use the same hinge, just make stiles and rails smaller. KCDw offers a quick set for full overlay in their computer program. Looks really nice, and I would say that's a full overlay. If I'm asked to do a contemporary look, I'll go with 1/4" gaps, cover up the top rail on an upper as much I can, but I will do a large light rail and show off the real wood on the bottom of an upper. That look is still around in mobile home manufacturing and cheap box cabinets. Smaller doors and bigger face frame parts is cheaper. Older style face frame cabinets often had huge stiles and rails, since the cost per square foot for face frame stock is a lot less than the cost per square foot for doors. If you want it to look like Euro boxes, why not make Euro boxes? And yes, all we make is frameless casework, the standard in commercial work.īeing this is a face frame thing, 1/4" gaps between doors. The term doesn't make sense when applied to face frame cabinets. The term 1/2 overlay means that two doors meeting on the same side panel will each cover 1/2 the edge of the panel minus the margin. If you are trying to make your face frame cabinets look like Euro boxes, then the standard margins are 4mm+. What do you typically do for the top rail on the upper? Do you keep it the 1 1/2" and install a scrap piece above to rail for crown to be attached to? Or do you make the top rail 2 1/2" or bigger to nail the crown to?Įuro hinges come in 3 overlays, inset, 1/2, and full. To me it seemed that the overlays were all over the place and I began to wonder how one would sort all these out? I'm looking for standards.Īlso, what are your typical rail and stile widths? We do 1 1/2". The top of the drawer fronts on the bases appeared to be 1/2" overlay. All of the gaps in the middle of the doors and drawer fronts appeared to be 1/4" or so. Sure, the bottom of the doors on the uppers and bases covered the frame, but on left and right stiles, it appeared to only be 1/2, maybe 3/4, overlay. I recently saw another cabinet shop's work and it was deemed full overlay. We do face frame and use 1/2 overlay all around doors and drawer fronts. Just wondering what constitutes full overlay doors on face frame cabinets? Talking about kitchens here.
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